How Much Farther?

From Honna we followed the Tadami River's broad course along National Route 252. The Tadami, an unnatural emerald green, had no discernable current. Surprisingly, the only indication of life on the Tadami was the clack-clacking of the occasional kingfisher. There were no boaters or fishermen taking advantage of the lovely afternoon. The JR Tadami Line, which runs from Koide, Niigata, to Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima, derives its name from the river. Like its namesake, there is little activity along the line, there being only five trains daily during the "season"- from December to March service is completely suspended. Though Rt. 252 is paved (blessedly, we felt, after the previous 18k) Don and I had had enough of cycling that day, regardless of road conditions. Some 10k up the road we arrived in Aizu Kawaguchi, and we detoured to the station to consult the timetable. Unsurprisingly, the next train was not due in for nearly 2 hours , so we resigned ourselves to completing the ride as planned. Almost 30k separated us from Nozawa Station, our destination. Unaccountably, considering that we were following the Tadami River downstream, the road parallel to the waterway contained numerous steep climbs. With only a mouthful of Powerbar and a banana between us, the situation was desperate. Don suggested we flag down a passing motorist and offer all our spare cash in exchange for a lift to the station. Meanwhile, we stayed in the saddle, somehow managing to keep going. It seemed to take forever for our computers to register another kilometer traveled, while we ourselves counted down the distance to Nozawa: 25k, 23k, then 20k to go, if our estimate was accurate. Don had nearly reached the limit of his endurance, and one particularly steep pass remained to traverse. Dismount and push, up,up,up-were we on the right road, after all? This climb didn't show on our map. When our computers had clocked kilometer 115 of the 125 we expected to ride that day, the road began its unmistakable, final descent into Nishi-Aizu. We reached the station at 3:30, over 8 hours after leaving Tsugawa. Don's face is expressive of the fatigue and relief we both felt upon finishing-for the first and possibly last time- the Honna-Tsugawa Forest Road ride.